Waterproof Build
Edit on GitHubTaking the beacon to IP67: case sealing, connector treatment, and the assembly order that keeps water out of the electronics.
Waterproof Build
A rescue device that dies in rain is not a rescue device. The waterproof build takes the standard case and closes every water path, systematically.
The water paths
| Path | Fix |
|---|---|
| Case seam | Gasket or silicone seal |
| USB port | Not present in the sealed build (flash before sealing) |
| Antenna mount | SMA with O-ring or dielectric grease |
| Button holes | Membrane buttons or sealed caps |
| Audio jack | Sealed jack or delete it |
| Battery access | Closed case, or a gasketed door |
The assembly order
- Complete and test ALL electronics outside the case (see First Power On Protocol).
- Flash the final configuration.
- Seal the USB port (tape or epoxy) or omit it from the case cutout.
- Mount everything, route the antenna cable, close the case with the gasket.
- Water test: 30 minutes in a sink, then open and inspect for droplets.
Materials
| Material | Use |
|---|---|
| Silicone gasket or RTV | Case seam |
| Dielectric grease | Connector threads |
| Membrane buttons | The button openings |
| Hot glue or epoxy | Cable entries |
The honest trade-off
Sealing costs access: changing settings needs the WiFi portal (which works through the case, see WiFi Config Portal), and changing the battery needs opening the case. For most users, the right compromise is a gasketed case with a battery door rather than a permanently sealed one.
Testing after sealing
The sealed build must repeat the bench tests: the gasket and seals do not affect RF, but the antenna mount does. Re-run Receiver Testing and Transmitter Testing after the seal, not before.
Related pages
- Waterproofing and Enclosure Sealing for the full procedure
- Case Cutouts Guide for the holes
- Field Maintenance and Storage for the seals’ care